How do you "train" your dogs to be quiet in their crates.
How do you "train" your dogs to be quiet in their crates.
I have a question regarding the "Two Targets is a must" statement in the Behaviors section.
I have a dog who believes everything you write in that article. He knows that the sooner he gives me the behavior I'm looking for, the sooner the other piece of plastic will fly. It works great! He's happy, I'm happy, and my discs are happy (i.e. not destroyed).
However, when we switch to single disc (where two discs are not allowed), his behavior is radically different. He plays that very frustrating keep-away game where he gets a few feet from me, and then he just murders the disc.
What are my motivational options when only one target is allowed?
Let’s say that you have a dog that does not retrieve well, and is always dropping it a few feet in front of you. This is a frustrating problem for many trainers, as the more pressure you put on the dog to bring you the disc, the less apt he is to actually bring it. The dog learns that interaction with the handler creates stress, and learns to avoid that situation. The disc gets dropped farther and farther from the handler.
There are many things that you can do to get a retrieve, but few people use the dog’s drive and the rules of cause and effect, a consequent game, to get the disc brought to their hand.
Here is how the consequent game can help you get the disc dropped right next to the handler.
Tugging is a treat reward for discdogs. It does several things for us. It attaches prey drive to the biting of the disc; essentially a way of back chaining a catch. It also lends itself to back chaining a retrieve to the hand as the game often starts and stops with both dog and handler touching the disc.
When we teach the game of disc to our dogs, we always use at least two targets.
Having multiple targets ensures that we always have something the dog wants. If we’re playing with one, the dog quickly learns that he has something that we want. This is like giving our dogs our bait bag.
With multiple discs, when the dog makes the catch we still have motivation in our hands. He winds up with a dead toy and we have a live one. This throws the odds in our favor and allows us far more ability to manipulate the situation. It allows us to train.
We can now wait on behaviors. We can deliver reinforcement more efficiently. We can maintain a higher rate of reinforcement.
Two Targets is a must.
We need to learn to hit our dog in stride with the disc, making the big leap (or the safe leap in my case with Leilani) all but inevitable.
Getting a dog to leap everytime means putting the disc in the right spot, at the right distance at the right time. That is not a terribly hard thing to do once you've figured out where and when that spot is. The problem is that most people never learn where that spot is, let alone when, and many people don't even know there's a spot.
Another thing that needs to happen with our game is that our dog must be able to drop a disc when asked. Whether it's at our feet, out there 20 yards away, or while standing on my back.
Getting a drop on the run is extremely important in building routines.
Directional Feeding is a drill that we use here at Pawsitive Vybe to teach our dogs how to drop discs on the run, away from us, and to give the handler an opportunity to learn how to compute and execute a proper lead time for the big leaping grab. Disc placement by the handler and disc management by the dog can be worked or learned at the same time.
How do you "train" your dogs to be quiet in their crates.